It starts with the early morning mist gently drifting across the glassy waters and the smell of honeysuckle in the breeze, that make a persons heart ache for a distant banjo or fiddle to awaken the morning.
It’s so subtle at first; the crystal blue sky, the fresh dew sprinkling down from tree canopy above tickling your cheeks as you make your way down the bank to the river, that you don’t even realize the spell the waters have already weaved.
For untold centuries these crisp clear waters have carved their way through the beautiful Ozark Mountains for just this: that moment you pull away from the bank and the enchanting White River opens herself to you in all of her glory.
White River is home to dozens of infamous outfitters and fishing resorts along this beautiful stretch of the river including: Copper Johns, Stetsons, Rim Shoals, Riley’s Station and Gastons just to name a few, that cater to fishing enthusiasts from all over the world.
On an early morning in late May, I was accompanied by my niece and talented graphic designer, Rachel Cochran for a day of fishing in the Ozarks of Arkansas.
We caught up with our guide Frank Saksa at the legendary Gaston’s White River Resort which sits along the banks of probably the most popular and productive stretch of the stream; the first 30 miles of tail waters below Bull Shoals Dam. The White River Tail waters of Bull Shoals is one of the country’s best trout fishing destinations. It never freezes, so it can be fished year-round and is known for record Browns along with Rainbows, Brooks and Cutthroat Trout. It runs cold and clear and can be fished by boat but also by wading when the water is low.
A legend all on its own, Gaston’s White River Resort began 60 years ago when Al Gaston, Jim Gaston’s father, purchased 20 acres of White River frontage with six small cottages and six boats. Today Jim’s grandson, Clint Gaston and his family carry on the family legacy.
Clint is a lot like the White River, young in years, but rich in history. He understands that many traditions have come to pass in the last 60 years at Gaston’s which has made it the legendary place it is today. The resort now covers over 400 acres, has 79 cottages, the six boats now number over 70 and boast a world class dining experience in their restaurant overlooking the gorgeous White River waters.
Frank was down at the dock in his green flat-bottomed boat with everything we would need for a day of trout fishing, including a cooler. Frank has guided for Gaston’s Resort for over 25 seasons on the White and knows the river like the back of his hand.
Frank said, “You girls ready for today?”
“That would be a Yes!” we replied with enthusiasm. We couldn’t get in the boat fast enough!
The misty morning fog was just lifting off the cold river waters as we began our way downstream to our first stop. You couldn’t have asked for a more perfect day. Although temperatures were in the upper 80’s, the sharp cool breeze coming off the cold water absolutely gives a person goosebumps! Even on the hottest of Arkansas’ summer days, a cool breeze is always to be found on these cold waters.
We stopped just short of an eddy with the clear current tumbling over the river’s shallow bottom. Frank brought out the rods and red worms to do some spin fishing. Rachel was a pro, casting almost effortlessly, me, I’m well just me, no pro here to say the least!
She reeled in a spectacular colored rainbow trout on her first cast. The trout were hitting just as soon as the line hit the water. One after another Rachel reeled them in and Frank gently released the rainbows from the small hook in hopes that one day they would mature to spawn. He also calls this “job security” that way the next fisherman is sure to get a great catch!
Releasing the trout back into the river was just as enjoyable as the catch itself! As Rachel was spin fishing, Frank got out his fly rod and proceeded to show me his art. He made it all look so simple. He handed me the rod after he demonstrated a few times.
I loved the way the line felt in between my fingers as I slowly dragged the line back. After a just a few casts, you could make out the trout coming up for the bait just as the line hit the water, it was awesome!
Frank is a wealth of knowledge when it comes to just about anything. He grew up in Indiana and loved to fish from a very early age and had visited Arkansas to work and fish on several occasions. Like so many who visit here, the White River worked her magic and Frank made Arkansas his home in 1979 and never looked back.
Frank himself is a rarity, saying he has two loves, fishing of course and his wife Linda, but he is also a very talented musician with a passion to teach children music at no cost to their family through his foundation Arkansas Music, Inc.
As we listened to Frank talk with such enthusiasm for life and his passion for teaching others fishing and music, we found ourselves on the edge of our seats learning a bit of history of the river as well as from his own life experiences.
We spoke of how the White River today is a cold water river but this has not always been the case. The White and Norfork rivers had once been free flowing warm water rivers. This all changed dramatically nearly 70 years ago after the completion of the Norfork Dam (1949) and the Bull Shoals Dam (1952). In this sense, the Norfork and White rivers were reborn making them now very young in terms of time.
No longer are they warm water rivers, their waters are now drawn from deep below the surface of the lakes through the dam system. The water temperature went from an average of 65 degree waters favorable to small-mouth bass “aka ‘Green Trout”, to the cold water rivers with tail water temperatures averaging 52 degrees. The Arkansas Game and Fish Commission began stocking trout simply as a mitigation for the loss of warm water habitat in the tail water below the dams.
After a bit, we slowly motored back up the river to do some drift fishing. We would cast out, drift for a bit and then motor back up again.
We passed by both men and women fly fishing the waters not far from the rivers bank. Zipping their line across the water so effortlessly, there is almost nothing quit so mesmerizing as watching a person fly fish. Frank explained the river waters from the dam were at a low level making it perfect for the fisherman to stand in the current to fish.
The clear river waters just glistened as the sun beamed across as we made our way back to the docks to Gaston’s for lunch. Frank pointed out the water level on the huge concrete pillars and how much it had risen since morning.
The dam on Bull Shoals just North of Gaston’s had increased water flow throughout the day. It was hard to imagine that the river had risen 6 feet since morning. This is just another reason to always go with a guide on rivers you don’t know, experience is the key to survival on any river.
Rachel and I went up the steps from the river right into Gaston’s restaurant over-looking the White River, still in amazement of our morning. She had caught some really nice rainbows, plenty for a mess to take home already and we were still going out to fish again.
How much better could it get? Apparently a lot better! We ordered up some lunch and let me tell you their smoked trout poppers with blackberry pepper jelly are fantastic!
After we ate, we headed out towards Bull Shoals Dam just a short distance North from Gaston’s Resort and Copper Johns. As we got closer though, Frank spotted clouds forming up ahead and decided we should stay closer to the docks for a while. Sure enough as we were fishing just down from the resorts, the rain set in. We quickly pulled into the dock for cover and listened to the rain as it danced along on the roof of the docks. In just a bit the rain passed, and we headed back up towards the dam.
Rachel was shocked at how quickly the air temperature changed as we motored closer towards the dam. At a chilling 52 degrees, the water is about at its average temperature; this is what the trout love, cold running waters!
We rigged up with our red worms and cast out alongside the other boats doing the same thing. Rachel again was reeling in the rainbows. I cast and got a few hits and was just about to think the trout didn’t like me, when bam I got a hit and it was a strong one!
I reeled in slowly, listening to Frank all the while. He grabbed the net as I got my fish closer to our boat and swooped up under it to get it in the boat. I had caught a gorgeous spotted brown trout, talk about nice! I could tell by the look on Frank’s face he knew what it was all that time. He just smiled. We quickly took a few pictures of it and gently returned the brown beauty back to the river.
Our incredible day on the White River was coming to an end, as we slowly made our way back down toward the docks. We reminisced together about the majesty of these ancient water ways.
The history here flows like the water: in abundance. These waterways were not just home to the early settlers in Arkansas, but also to countless tribes of Native Americans who once called the hills and hollers of the Ozarks home.
It’s impossible to look upon the giant bluffs and caves and not wonder, how many hearts have been etched by these clear running waters? The countless and beautiful tales born in these waters could never really be done justice without telling all of them and no one person really knows them all. Somehow though, I think we all feel it. That subtle gentle pull, to join the countless, create our own tales on the White River and become hooked for life.
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